Today we had our proper big swell since we got here. It started off big, but not massive, that is when i went out. I was shitting in my pants a little bit, because some sets were actually quite big. I could take a few waves, so I am quite please. Then I came in and it started getting even bigger. The sets were closing out the channel and the waves were all one from lanes to Hookipa... so i didnt go out anymore. My friend Tatiana had and unlucky day. On her first wave she hit the lip on a big one and got smacked on her face with her mast, so that was it for her for today. She got quite a big bump on her forehead, so it was better to stay out of the water.
jueves, 15 de noviembre de 2007
BIG DAY...
Hi all!!!!!
Today we had our proper big swell since we got here. It started off big, but not massive, that is when i went out. I was shitting in my pants a little bit, because some sets were actually quite big. I could take a few waves, so I am quite please. Then I came in and it started getting even bigger. The sets were closing out the channel and the waves were all one from lanes to Hookipa... so i didnt go out anymore. My friend Tatiana had and unlucky day. On her first wave she hit the lip on a big one and got smacked on her face with her mast, so that was it for her for today. She got quite a big bump on her forehead, so it was better to stay out of the water.


Today we had our proper big swell since we got here. It started off big, but not massive, that is when i went out. I was shitting in my pants a little bit, because some sets were actually quite big. I could take a few waves, so I am quite please. Then I came in and it started getting even bigger. The sets were closing out the channel and the waves were all one from lanes to Hookipa... so i didnt go out anymore. My friend Tatiana had and unlucky day. On her first wave she hit the lip on a big one and got smacked on her face with her mast, so that was it for her for today. She got quite a big bump on her forehead, so it was better to stay out of the water.