Today we had our proper big swell since we got here. It started off big, but not massive, that is when i went out. I was shitting in my pants a little bit, because some sets were actually quite big. I could take a few waves, so I am quite please. Then I came in and it started getting even bigger. The sets were closing out the channel and the waves were all one from lanes to Hookipa... so i didnt go out anymore. My friend Tatiana had and unlucky day. On her first wave she hit the lip on a big one and got smacked on her face with her mast, so that was it for her for today. She got quite a big bump on her forehead, so it was better to stay out of the water.
