martes, 18 de noviembre de 2008
Today the wind was back (actually from yesterday, that i went freestyling to Kihei, but it was such a mess of a day that I better forget about it), but it was a bit northerly, what means that the north shore was a bit onshore. Even though windguru was not calling for a big swell, it kind of was big. Solid mast high, proper one. how different everything is once the waves pass a certain high: no more going for it with no fear for me. i was playing pretty safe actually, but in my defense i have to say that i went down some of the proper big ones. But it wasn't pretty. I mean, it was kind of messy, and there was a lot, a lot of current. if you took the nice wave, it was super good, smooth and open face, but the good ones were difficult to find. (But once again, all this in my personal point of view). Levi was amazing.... like Stefan said, he was sailing it like if it was a perfect wave like Ponta Preta... once again, impressive, very impressive.