HERE IS SO BIG TOO

it is sooooo nice to be home. I just wanted to arrived home and have some fun chill surfing... but no chance. I arrived and the swell picked up crazy straight away... it has been going off for surfing here all this past month, and you can see people is fit! men...I was so scared! These pics are from a spot in front of my home, but it was too big for me... i went out in another spot in the north that was not so big, but still, i was shitting it a bit.. plus, I am such a chicken these days... dont know what is going on.. but i am trying to get back to place... we'll see!!