viernes, 20 de noviembre de 2009

MAUI UPDATE

It h been pretty weird weather over here... it has been rainy and gusty winds, but this doesnt mean we havent got good conditions.
yesterday it was a fun day at Hookipa, but then, like in the last two days, the wind shutted off in an instant, making it quite difficult to come back to the beach.
we also had a super fun day at Camp One the other day, jumping with Brazinho, Ricardo, Anita, Junko, John and me...

but the best report is from two days ago. We arrived at Hookipa, and although we were not expecting it too big, we saw pretty big sets coming through. it was weird, beacause for a long period would be normal size, and then suddenly for a while it was pretty BIG. so the thing is that when we arrived and saw the bog sets, I though "ok, it is pretty big... oh God, should I go, should i not..". I decided to go, even thought I was super scared. the wind was shifty and up and down because of the rain... but anyways.. I made it out. but look how the mind was. in my mind, i was already scared, and i let it be there, instead of switching it and thonk "come on!! you can do this, is ok!".. well, not, i didnt, i stayed in the scared mode. In my mind, i wasnt objective al all... in my mind, it was HUGE, so i barely got a few waves and ride pretty much the shoulder and always super aware about what was behind, etc... not worth it... really... then the wind died... literally died, and there I was, far out, sinking, and with the though in my mind that it was super big.. i was sooooo worried... i made it in, just. when i put my gear down, i looked out, and it didnt look that huge at all.... it was so weird. It was a weird experience. on the water i just kept thinking: "what the hell am I doing here? what do I want to prove?" it wasnt worth it in terms of the waves i took, but it was worth it for the adrenaline... Weird mind session.. i tell you... the guys were ripping though: Levi, John, Bouj, Ricardo and Junko was also ripping hard... she is soo good at Hookipa....